Grilled brats with wine-mustard kraut and poppy seed buns

BY BILL ST. JOHN
What we have here is a preparation of protein and vegetable that is high in its own native acidity (mustard, white wine, the ferment of sauerkraut) and that, consequently, poses a problem for wine. Acidity in food is one of the most difficult elements to match with wine; it "flattens" most wines, making them taste dull and uninspired. However, some wines do work well: those that are high in acidity themselves.

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 4 Marczyk Fine Foods bratwurst
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 onion thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup Galerna Verdejo white wine
• 1 package (16 ounces) Ba-Tempte sauerkraut
• 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper
• Vienna Beef poppy seed buns

Makes 4 servings
Prepare grill for direct cooking. Cut lengthwise through bratwurst. Grill, turning often with tongs, until cooked through and browned, 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. Add onion; cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in Dijon mustard. Stir in wine; cook to reduce slightly, 2 minutes. Stir in sauerkraut and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Heat through. Place cooked bratwurst in poppy seed buns; top with sauerkraut.

And the wines!

Galerna Verdejo — Spain
Nice bouquet of citrus and tropical fruits. Light, clean palate with a subtle finish. Free of pesticides and fertilizers — estate-grown using biodynamic practices.
Storm Point Red — South Africa
Lively with a weird yet appealing meatiness. Strawberry fruit roll up, vanilla, musk, currant, blueberry, blackberry, cherry, raspberry, licorice and anise.
Skouras Moscofilero White — Greece
Generous, full body on this rich but bright Greek grape. Lovely minerality and notes of white flowers, honeysuckle, and rose petals.