RECIPE: Grilled brats with wine-mustard kraut and poppy seed buns

BY BILL ST. JOHN
What we have here is a preparation of protein and vegetable that is high in its own native acidity (mustard, white wine, the ferment of sauerkraut) and that, consequently, poses a problem for wine. Acidity in food is one of the most difficult elements to match with wine; it "flattens" most wines, making them taste dull and uninspired. However, some wines do work well: those that are high in acidity themselves.