
Pete’s Porterhouse: Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Pete’s Porterhouse is our name for the Tuscan cut known as Bistecca alla Fiorentina. This steak is approximately one kilogram (2.2 lbs), and it’s the classic share-plate of a luxurious Tuscan lunch or dinner.
This steak is made from the first-cut off of the short loin; it is composed of a strip loin (NY strip) and a tenderloin (fillet mignon) on the bone. There are only ourftrue porterhouses per animal due to simple anatomy. The other steaks cut off of the short loin are known as T-bones; these have a much smaller fillet than the porterhouse and that is the differentiation
Cooking these is the real fun. You really must temper the meat for at least an hour (preferably two) at room temperature. This lets the meat ‘temper’ closer to room-temp than fridge-temp and aids in cooking this beast. I cook mine over live charcoal (although gas or flat-top works as well). Give the steak a solid sear on both sides (rotating the steak on the same side 45-90 degrees will produce nice grill marks.) It may flame some, but that’s ok. This process should take about 8-15 minutes depending on how hot the fire is and how close the meat is to the heat source) You gotta believe!
Once the steak ‘faces’ are seared, stand the steak on it’s bone-side standing up over the heat. The bone protects the meat from over-cooking or burning while the heat from your fire radiates up and roasts the meat perfectly. I pull mine off the fire at 115-120 degrees Fahrenheit for rare—mid-rare. This may take up to 30 minutes! But check temps every five minutes or so, as fires differ widely in intensity and there is no ‘timing’ trick, just use the thermometer and your senses.
***The steak should rest (just rest) uncovered in a non-drafty warm spot for at least 15 minutes before carving.***
The classic presentation is to cut both steaks off the bone, slice them vertically or on the bias at about 1/4-1/2” thickness—reassemble the pieces and put them back on the bone same as they came off. Season steak with crunchy salt like Maldon or Falksalt, then a generous drizzle of good EVOO (This is the time to use your best EVOO, or go get one nice and fresh)—preferably a robust EVOO like DeCarlo, or (let me see what we have). Remember: oil changes food, and food changes oil.