OCEAN PERCH TACOS

BY BILL ST. JOHN
For certain foods — wings, dogs, spicy eats or, as here, fish tacos — the default beverage is beer, by wide acclaim. What beer does is refresh and cleanse the palate; wine can do that too, especially if it carries bracing acidity such as these suggested here. (And we’ll throw a sparkler in for good measure; it’s beer as wine, right?)

You’ll need:

• 1 bag (16 ounces) shredded cabbage and carrots
• 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 2 skinned walleye fillets (6 ounces each)
• Olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon each ground cumin and chili powder
• 1/4 teaspoon each dried oregano and salt
• 6 (or more, if small) flour tortillas

Here’s what you do:

Makes 6 servings
Make a coleslaw: Stir together in a bowl the shredded cabbage and carrots, the onion, mayonnaise, cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Set aside. Place walleye fillets on a lightly greased broiler pan; brush with olive oil. Sprinkle with the cumin and chili powder, the dried oregano and salt; rest 15 minutes. Broil fish until lightly browned. Flake with a fork in a bowl. Fill 6 heated tortillas with shredded fish; top with coleslaw.

And the wines:

2018 Chateau Mourgues du Gres Galets Rose
An incredibly aromatic rose with notes of wild strawberry, raspberry and red currant. There’s a bright burst of citrus and a hint of pepper. It is very ample and profound, yet retains a light airiness.

2017 Medimer Picpoul
Dewy sage and fresh trimmed suburban grass, wet sidewalk chalk and white rose petals. Light body, chuggable and briney. Crisp and clean with a length that doesn’t linger.

2016 Jean Philippe Cremant de Limoux Rosé
Made in the classic method; resplendent of fine bubbles, mouth-filling flavors of pear and citrus and firm acidity; a super alternative to more costly Champagne.