BY BILL ST. JOHN
My mother poached fish in an unholy amount of dry white wine. I've adapted her recipe to this one, both to save on the amount of wine, and also, because it is a simple recipe, as an inspiration for family peeps to cook for Mom on her annual day. You won't believe how tender these salmon filets turn out; they become fish pudding. It's also a good reminder that sometimes the best wine simply pairs up with the texture of the food. Salmon takes to many wines. For this dish, go for one that will be like a case to its pillow, something to hold the softness together on the tongue.
• 4 6-ounce fillets Loch Duart salmon, skin-on
• 3 cups liquid (50/50 mix of one of the wines mentioned below and water)
• 1 lemon, in slices
• 1 sprig fresh dill
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon each minced fresh dill, capers and lemon juice
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
Makes 4 servings
Heat poaching liquid in a skillet over high heat. Add lemon slices to skillet along dill, salt and peppercorns. Heat to a simmer; cook, 10 minutes. Add salmon fillets salmon, skin side up. Cover skillet; simmer 4 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; turn fillets over. Cover skillet; let stand off heat until salmon is done, 5-8 minutes. Stir dill, capers and lemon juice into the mayonnaise. Serve with the salmon.
And the wines!
Skouras Moscofilero — Greece
Mix up your white wine game with this delicious Greek goddess. Elegant and medium-bodied with gentle tannins. Dark red fruits with vanilla and black pepper.
Moulin de Gassac Guilhem White — France
40% white Grenache, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Teret. A bright, lively natural wine with crisp acidity and powerful, fruity aromatics. Medium-bodied with flavors of apple, pear, and a touch of minerality.
Storm Point White — South Africa
Savory and herbal aromas lead to subtle stone fruit and citrus blossom notes, all accentuated by vibrant lemon zest sprinkled with sea water. This is textbook Chenin Blanc, featuring a mineral drive with ample weight balanced by poignant acid on the finish. This varietal expression opens your eyes to the beauty and sophistication of South Africa's beloved and most widely planted variety.