If you’ve been to a sushi den and ordered and eaten uni, you’ll remember that sea urchin is up there as one of the more delicious combinations of savor, flavor, texture and temptation.
Striped bass has a clean mouthfeel and a semi-firm texture. Cooked, it has a flaky texture with skin that crisps beautifully.
Instant Pot Chile Verde
From Colin St John, adapted from a recipe created by legendary Denver Post food editor Helen Dollaghan.
Note: The most ubiquitous chiles on the Front Range are from Select New Mexico (which is actually a Denver-based company) and Bueno. Chiles almost always only come in “hot” and “mild.” If you prefer a medium heat, buy a package of each and double the recipe. Or add some jalapeños or serranos to a mild batch. If you use fresh chiles, chop them and add at least enough broth to cover to the rest of the ingredients.
1 pound pork, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes (lean pork shoulder, loin or chop)
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 1/2 tablespoons dark chile powder
1 1/2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 medium onion, diced
1 14.5-ounce can low-sodium chicken broth
1 24-ounce package or 2 13-ounce packages frozen roasted green chiles, defrosted (or the equivalent in fresh-roasted green chiles)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 lime, halved
Sides of flour or corn tortillas, crumbled tortilla chips, chopped cilantro, diced avocado, lime wedges, shredded cheese
Set Instant Pot to Sauté and, once hot, add oil and pork. Brown pork on all sides, sprinkling with salt and pepper. Add cumin, chile powder, oregano, garlic and onion, and stir well. Add broth, chopped chiles, tomato paste and squeeze of one half of lime. Stir well; sauté until mixture in pot just begins to bubble. Press Cancel.
Close the lid and cook on High Pressure for 25 minutes, then allow for 5 minutes Natural Release followed by a Quick Release. Open the lid and serve with the sides.
For additional chile heat: Add seeded and chopped jalapeño or serrano chiles along with the chopped and roasted green chiles in the cooking pot, or the same, fresh, seeded and finely chopped as part of the sides.
BY BILL ST. JOHN
This recipe is for all you newly birthed Instant Pot users out there - such as myself - who feel as I felt that there really can be no substitute for slow-cooking a pork shoulder (on offer this week at Marczyk Fine Foods, $5.99/lb, F&F $4.99/lb), “slow and low” for 6-7 hours in a braise in the Crock-Pot or - even better - a super slow oven.
Yeah, sure, they tell you, these Canadians who came up with this latest kitchen applia-craze, that falling-apart meat will fall apart as you lift it from the Instant Pot after only - “only”! they spiel - an hour and a half. Hah-hah-hah-hah, this blue hair hah-hahs.
Well, the other night our son, Colin, took out his favorite kitchen applia-craze and, well, he did this recipe and it. was. so. delicious.
Yeah it fell apart.
Better than - this is difficult for me - my close-to-same recipe that takes 6-7 hours in the Crock-Pot. Colin and Mom got me an Instant Pot for last Christmas and I plan to [lower register, throat clearing, “ahem”-sorta sound] use it more.
Pressure Cooker Garlicky Cuban Pork
“This cumin-scented, garlic-laced pork is marinated with grapefruit, lime, and fresh oregano for a flavor that’s earthy and garlicky, yet bright from the citrus. The meat itself is as tender as can be, falling to shreds with the touch of a fork. Serve it over rice, or tuck it into tortillas along with some salsa and avocado to create tacos.” Melissa Clark at The New York Times
8 garlic cloves
Juice of 1 grapefruit (about 2/3 cup)
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 4-5 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 4 pieces
1 bay leaf
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving
Lime wedges, for serving
Hot Sauce, for serving
Tortillas, for serving (optional)
Fresh tomato salsa, for serving (optional)
In a blender or mini food processor, combine the garlic, grapefruit juice, lime zest and juice, 2 tablespoons of the oil, brown sugar, oregano, cumin, and salt; process until blended. Transfer to a large bowl and add the pork and bay leaf; toss to combine. Marinate, covered, at room temperature for 1 hour (or refrigerate for up to 6 hours).
Using the sauté function (of the Instant Pot, if using) set on high if available, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the pressure cooker (or use a large skillet). Remove the pork from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and shake the meat to remove any excess liquid. Cook until it is browned on all sides, about 12 minutes (you will need to do this in batches, transferring the browned pork pieces to a plate as you go).
When all the pork is browned, return the pieces to the pot along with any juices from the plate. (If you used a skillet, add 1 tablespoon water and use a wooden spoon to scrape the skillet well to include all the browned bits stuck to the bottom.) Add the reserved marinade to the pot. Cover and cook on high pressure for 80 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally.
Remove the pork from the cooking liquid (jus). Taste the jus, and if it seems bland or too thin, boil it down either in the pressure cooker on the sauté setting or in a separate pot on the stove until it thickens slightly and intensifies in flavor, 7-15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and add a bit of salt if necessary. If you’d like to degrease the jus, use a fat separator to do so, or just let the jus settle and spoon the fat off the top.
Shred the meat, using your hands or two forks. Toss the meat with the jus to taste (be generous, 1 1/2-2 cups should do it), and serve with cilantro, lime wedges, and hot sauce.
BY BILL ST. JOHN
For certain foods — wings, dogs, spicy eats, or, as here, fish tacos — the default beverage is beer, by wide acclaim. What beer does is refresh and cleanse the palate. Wine can do that too, especially if it carries bracing acidity.
2 skinned ocean perch fillets (6 ounces each)
1 bag (16 ounces) shredded cabbage and carrots
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon each ground cumin and chili powder
1/4 teaspoon each dried oregano and salt
6 (or more, if small) flour tortillas
Makes 6 servings
Make a coleslaw: Stir together in a bowl the shredded cabbage and carrots, the onion, mayonnaise, cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Set aside. Place perch fillets on a lightly greased broiler pan; brush with olive oil. Sprinkle with the cumin and chili powder, the dried oregano and salt; rest 15 minutes. Broil fish until lightly browned. Flake with a fork in a bowl. Fill 6 heated tortillas with shredded fish; top with coleslaw.
1 pound ramps
2 large garlic cloves, finely grated
4 tablespoons gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste)
3 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam)
1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce
½ large head Napa cabbage, cut into 1" pieces (about 6 cups)
½ medium daikon (Japanese white radish), peeled, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced into half-moons (about 1 ½ cups)
separate ramp bulbs from leaves. Halve bulbs and julienne leaves
Mix chile paste, sugar, salt, fish sauce and soy sauce
Combine chile paste mixture with ramps, cabbage and daikon massaging the ingredients thoroughly
Place entire batch of kimchi into a container with a tight lid and refrigerate. Wait for 3 days and enjoy.
Curried Fiddlehead Ferns
1 cup fiddleheads
3 cups water
2 tsp salt
2 tbs avocado oil
2 cups potatoes - peeled and large diced
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp curry powder
1/2 cup jalapeños - seeds removed and diced
1 tbs minced ginger
2 tbs butter
Bring water and salt to a boil. Add fiddleheads and simmer for 10 minutes, remove from water and cool
In a large pan heat oil and add potatoes. Cook until crispy on 2 sides.
Add cumin, curry, jalapeno and ginger. Saute for 3 minutes
Add fiddleheads and finish with cold butter
Season with salt to taste
What follows are ten turns on compound butters, both sweet and savory. The process is simple: take a stick of unsalted butter, bring it to room temperature, and, in a freestanding or processor bowl, and whip in the flavorings given. I suggest possible foods onto which a knob of compound butter might be dolloped.
BY BILL ST. JOHN
Mahi-mahi — like swordfish, shark, and tuna — is actually a cow that swims. These fish are meat: chewy, textured, and amenable to various ways with cooking heat. My mother used to poach, at a super low simmer, large filets of salmon in what I considered to be an unholy amount of dry white wine. But no one ever has equaled how tender the result. It was like pudding with gills. With its sweet taste and firm flesh, mahi-mahi also lends itself well to poaching.
6 5-ounce skinless mahi-mahi fillets (each about 1 and 1/2 inches thick)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cups bottled clam juice
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1/2 pound uncooked medium shrimp, peeled, deveined
Fresh fennel fronds
Pat dry the mahi-mahi fillets; salt and pepper them. In large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, cook 3 filets only on one side only until brown; transfer to plate. Repeat with other 3 fillets.
Combine the clam juice and white wine with 4-5 lemon slices, the garlic cloves, and the red pepper flakes in heavy large skillet. Cover, simmer for 10 minutes. Add all the fish, browned side up, and any juices, and cover and simmer until fish is opaque in center (about 10 minutes).
Transfer fish with slotted spoon to platter. Add the shrimp to cooking liquid; simmer until shrimp are just cooked through. Transfer shrimp to fish platter; Keep warm with foil tent.
Remove garlic and lemon slices from cooking liquid; boil until liquid is reduced to 1 cup. Serve garnished with the fennel fronds and drizzled with the sauce.
Milk, you say? Milk, I say. Some say that leche's lactic acidity does the heavy lifting in the tenderizing department during the braise. Whatever its role, I can't imagine a better braising medium for pork because, unlike broths or juices, the milk breaks itself down, too, into little curds or nuggets that taste something like Sugar Babies.
4 swordfish steaks or other suitable cuts, each 1-inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4-6 cups good quality but modestly priced olive oil (see note)
Straight-sided pan large enough to hold all fish in 1 layer
Bring fish up to room temperature if removing from refrigerator, at least 1 hour ahead. Heat oven to 225F. Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Pour oil into pan and heat over stovetop burner until oil is 120-130F (use instant-read thermometer). Slip pieces of fish into pan and immediately place in oven. Let poach for 25 minutes. To serve: remove fish with slotted spatula or spoon.
Note: It's not necessary, of course, to use your expensive drizzling oil for this recipe. Also, you may filter the oil, once used, for another fish poaching; it will remain OK in the frig for a couple of weeks, in the freezer for a couple months.
Tips on buying, storing and cooking fish:
— When buying fresh, stretch out your thumb and first finger. Fresh fish must feel like the pad of flesh in between them, never mushy like the same pad when relaxed.
— If the fish seller allows you to sniff, it should smell neutral, at most like a sea breeze and, of course, never “fishy.” If the seller won't let your nose near the fish, see if she will fan its aroma toward your schnoz.
— A whole fish makes for cool cooking, so don't shy away from buying such. Taut skin and scales; bright red, moist gills; shiny clear eyes - all are good signs.
— It’s risky to refrigerate fish for more than a day after you buy it. After the trip to the store, keep it in a closed plastic bag set atop a bowl of smashed ice. Use the back of the lowest shelf above the bottom bins, the coldest place in the icebox.
— Keep on the skin of more delicate types of fresh fish (sole, flounder, halibut) and also salmon. The skin not only helps hold the fish together when eventually cooking it, but also adds flavor. (Score skin lightly with a very sharp knife or razor blade when cooking to prevent curling under the heat.)
— With certain sorts of fish (for example, salmon), when preparing to cook, run your fingertip over the filet to feel for "pin" bones, little pesky pains that run perpendicular to the backbone or rib cage and that lie hidden in the flesh. Remove them with tweezers, pulling "along and away" more than up and out.
— Patting fish dry before cooking ensures crispness of both skin and flesh.
— When cooking fish, many cooks adhere to the "10 minutes per inch" injunction; that is, whatever the method, they cook fish for 10 minutes for every inch of thickness of the flesh.
— But that adherence rules out considerations such as the firmness or fat content of the fish (or, looked at another way, the delicacy or leanness), or whether, in some methods of cooking over direct heat, the left-on skin provides, in effect, a heat shield.
— It's better to tailor the cooking method - sautéing or frying in a pan; deep-fat frying; roasting or baking; poaching; or grilling - to the type of fish.
— For example, the more tender chicks of the sea such as flounder, sole or halibut are well suited to sautéing, ill-suited for grilling (unless they are the whole kahuna, nose to tail and both sides now). Grilling is great for “the cows that swim” that are tuna, swordfish, mahi-mahi or, often, salmon. Their firm, sometimes-fatty flesh is like fish beefsteak.
— Packets of fish, in crimped parchment paper (“en papillote”) in the oven, are ideal for fish such as cod, pollock, sole, haddock, snapper, halibut, trout, char — in short, many a white fish and any that are delicately fleshed.
— Slowly poaching in the oven - submerged in a court bouillon, or white wine, or good quality olive oil - filets of firm-fleshed fish such as salmon, tuna or swordfish, turns out such diaphanously delicate fish flesh that it's like pudding with gills.
— If you bake or broil fish, be sure the flesh is dense, firm and well-fatted. The latter character will baste the fish as it cooks.
Intro to Pete Marczyk's recipe by Pete Marczyk himselfMy first experience with Green Chile (caps intentional and used out of reverence) was about 20 years ago. I had moved to Denver from Massachusetts, and the only "chili" I knew was the red kind with lots of overworked finely ground beef and kidney beans. It was my first autumn in the Southwest, and I was captivated by this new scent of roasting chiles wafting from the roadside stands with giant signs proclaiming, "Hatch Green Chile War!" Instantly, I was like a dog on point. I could smell chiles being roasted from a mile away. All of a sudden I was pursuing green chiles and green chile stews of all kinds — and they were everywhere.
New Mexican green chile stew
(remember, this is peasant food, so don't stress)
Serves 6 with great leftovers
2 pounds pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, peeled and coarsely diced
1 1/2 tsp dried Mexican oregano
1/2 tsp cumin
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 pound fresh tomatillos, peeled and diced (canned tomatillos can be substituted)
2 pounds roasted and peeled Anaheim or Big Jim green chiles, chopped
1 pound very ripe tomatoes, coarsely diced (canned is also fine)
4 cups chicken stock
2 lbs Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
Kosher salt, pepper to taste
Optional: Cayenne pepper
Roast peppers in a 450°F oven for 20-25 minutes until the skin blisters. Place peppers in a plastic bag and cover for about 20-30 minutes until cool enough to handle. Remove the skins and seeds from the peppers and discard. Chop the flesh and set aside.
Season pork thoroughly with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium heat in a heavy shallow skillet until it just begins to glisten. Add pork in small batches until all the cubes are browned on all sides. Do not crowd the pork. (We use a shallow skillet because a deep one will steam, rather than brown the pork.) Take your time and complete this step correctly, because it makes all the difference. Set pork aside and save some of the rendered pork fat for the rest of the recipe.
Add two tablespoons pork fat (mo' fat, mo' flavor) to a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat and gently sweat onions, garlic and tomatillos until all vegetables are soft. Add the remaining ingredients, including the pork and cook until the pork is fork-tender, about one to two hours. About 45 minutes before you want to serve the stew, add the potatoes, cayenne pepper (if desired) and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with warm flour tortillas.
BY BILL ST. JOHN
Of the two types of beef ribs - back ribs and short ribs - we’re generally more familiar with the latter. Beef short ribs sport straight bones, are 3-4 inches long, and have a good chunk of meat laying on top of the bone. By and large, we braise them, so you’ll find them on many a cold-weather menu.
Beef back ribs are 6-8 inches long, slightly curved, and have very little meat on top of them, but a nice finger-thick piece of meat in between them. They’re bare of top meat because that meat was taken for the great ribeye, butchered as steaks (the best of the seared steer?) or roasts, without which the English could not get through Sunday.
Like their siblings, the short ribs, beef back ribs are made for autumn and winter dining, although, unlike them, they also are very popular at warm-weather barbecues. Beef back ribs are finger-lickin' meat all year 'round.
About the only profitable way to cook beef back ribs is “slow and low,” so that means using the indirect method on a charcoal grill to smoke ‘em and melt them, or to braise the ribs either in or out of the oven (or in a slow cooker) for a couple-plus hours. The braise may be as ornate as French-style wine, aromatics and herbs, or as simple as capturing the meat’s own steam in a closed container.
This recipe comes from The New York Times. You’ll note that it also allows for beef short ribs, should you chose to cook those.
Braised Beef Ribs with Vegetables
from The New York Times — serves 4
3 tablespoons olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
4 pounds beef rib bones or short ribs, washed
2 medium onions, peeled, roughly chopped
5 cloves garlic, peeled, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon sweet butter
3 medium Yukon potatoes, peeled, roughly chopped
6 brown mushrooms, washed, sliced
3 large carrots, peeled, cut into thick rounds
2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch lengths
3 broccoli crowns, washed, the florets cut apart
10 Brussels sprouts, trimmed, quartered
1 cup Italian parsley, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary
4 cups water
In a Dutch oven or high-sided frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Brown the ribs on all sides, then remove, and discard the fat. Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil in the pan and brown 1 onion and 2 garlic cloves. Deglaze the pan with the water, add back the ribs, cover, and put into a 400-degree oven for 1 hour. Remove the pan, turn over the ribs, and put back in the oven for another hour.
Check the ribs. The meat should be tender and almost falling off the bone. If you're using short ribs, you may need to increase the cooking time another hour and you may have to add another cup of liquid. Put the ribs into one container. Strain out the onions and garlic and discard. Put the braising liquid into a second container and refrigerate.
The next day, peel the thick layer of fat off the braising liquid and discard. In the same pan you used the day before, heat the olive oil and butter. Brown the potatoes, mushrooms, and the rest of the onions, add the ribs and the braising liquid. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, broccoli, parsley, the rest of the garlic, and Brussels sprouts. Cover and simmer another 15 minutes. Serve the ribs in bowls with plenty of vegetables, the braising liquid, and a fresh baguette.
BY BILL ST. JOHN
Butchers or home cooks typically compose pork skewers (or “kebabs” or “kebobs” as they also may be called [although I always have shunned the latter because it’s too much voodoo on my brother, Robert]) from the loin cuts of pork. You might use tenderloin, although as is the case with tenderloin, any pork proposition with it is a gamble: with virtually no fat to guard against overcooking and drying out, “regular” loin cuts such as sirloin call merit to themselves.
Here are five ways to prepare pork kebabs. Grill any of these on very hot coals for 10-15 minutes, turning once or twice, or until the pork pieces are well browned all over but also being careful to not overcook the meat.